Savile Row Suits
Steven Hitchcock of Savile Row - tailored suits
Steven Hitchcock is the latest artisan to join the impeccable rostrum of Toffsworld preferred suppliers.
Apprenticed at Anderson and Shepphard, Steven is the youngest and one of the few remaining Savile Row tailors trained in the skills of both cutting and sewing – skills that are barely taught in Savile Row any more.
Now aged 31, Steven has the infamous claim to fame of starting his apprentiship on the Monday following the departure of Alexander McQueen – the enfant terrible of British design.
Now with his own premises just off Savile Row, Steven practices a form of tailoring known as Soft Tailoring and does it with expert precision.
This distinctive style of tailoring is preferred by most Americans and Europeans and differs from the traditional Savile Row cut in that he lets the cloth rest more naturally on the body.
Of course, nips and tucks are allowed to create a well defined look, but not the rigid architectural lines that are so prevalent of other tailors on the street.
All suits are designed from precise measurements taken by Steven during
the fitting stages. From here he produces a unique pattern for each customer
and cuts the suit accordingly.
There are hardly any tailoring companies who do this any more simply because the costs are so prohibitive.
As a result, many so called Tailored Suits that are fitted these days are cut to existing patterns – not yours – or worse, are based on suits that have already been semi-prepared in China or Taiwan!
One
of the many distinguishing features of Stevens suits is that he uses a
floating canvas in between the cloth. Many tailors, and almost every high
street store these days, uses what is more commonly known as a fused or
welded canvas.
Canvas is used around the shoulders, back and lapels to give a suit its definition. It helps to give shape to the parts of the suit that should be firm or structured.
However, to cut costs and speed up the suit making process, some tailors fuse or stick the canvas to the cloth before moving onto stitching.
This makes the stitching process faster as the tailor only has to align two pieces of cloth. When the canvas is floating however, three pieces of pattern have to be meticulously matched up and stitched.
Fused canvases look good the day you leave the shop but after a few dry cleans will begin to bubble, causing an irregularity in the line of the suit.
A suit with a floating canvas however, will last for years and is worth the extra investment.
With Steven, you’re getting real tailoring at its best.
A genuine suit that will make every wearer look a million dollars from the day they walk out of the store and for years to come.
To achieve this, Steven works to Classic cuts – not fashion.
Classic cuts have distinguishing features that Stepehen points out to every customer. Lapels are 5/8ths of an inch left or right of centre, cuffs hit the knuckle, armpits are cut high for a free fit etc.
A classic cut will always look acceptable because classic style never changes. Fashion on the other hand, changes with every season.
A fully fitted suit from Steven costs a respectable £2,000
or so depending on the cloth you choose – and there are 5,000 to choose
from.
Other tailors who provide this level of service are charging nearer £5,000 for this quality – indeed there are several tailors on Savile row charging £2,000 for ‘Off the Peg’ suits!
So if you want something special in your wardrobe, our advice is to get in touch.
As a bonus, Toffsworld Gold Club members will receive a Fitted Shirt with every purchase.
So get in touch with us now and let us schedule an appointment for you.
If you want to dress to impress – this is your chance.
