Savile Row Soft Tailoring is a distinctive style of tailoring preferred by most Americans and Europeans and differs from the traditional Savile Row cut in that it lets the cloth rest more naturally on the body.

Of course, nips and tucks are allowed to create a well defined look, but not the rigid architectural lines that are so prevalent among some tailors on the street.

MADE TO MEASURE

A proper tailor made suit will be designed from measurements taken by the tailor during the fitting stages. From here he produces a unique pattern for each customer and cuts the suit accordingly.

There are few tailoring companies even on Savile Row who do this precise measuring any more simply because the costs are so prohibitive.

As a result, many so called 'Tailored Suits' that are fitted these days are cut to existing patterns – not yours – or worse, are based on suits that have already been semi-prepared in China or Taiwan!

FLOATING CANVAS

One of the many distinguishing features of a good tailor is that he uses a floating canvas in between the cloth. Many tailors, and almost every high street store these days, uses what is more commonly known as a fused or welded canvas.

Canvas is used around the shoulders, back and lapels to give a suit its definition. It helps to give shape to the parts of the suit that should be firm or structured.

However, to cut costs and speed up the suit making process, some tailors fuse or stick the canvas to the cloth before moving onto stitching.

This makes the stitching process faster as the tailor only has to align two pieces of cloth. When the canvas is floating however, three pieces of pattern have to be meticulously matched up and stitched.

Fused canvases look good the day you leave the shop but after a few dry cleans will begin to bubble, causing an irregularity in the line of the suit.

A suit with a floating canvas however, will last for years and is worth the extra investment.

CLASSIC DESIGN

A genuine Savil Row suit will make every wearer look a million dollars from the day they walk out of the store and for years to come.

To achieve this, the tailor needs to work to Classic cuts – not fashion.

Classic cuts have distinguishing features. Lapels are 5/8ths of an inch left or right of centre, cuffs hit the knuckle, armpits are cut high for a free fit etc.

A classic cut will always look acceptable because classic style never changes. Fashion on the other hand, changes with every season.

If you want to dress to impress – go and get yourself a properly tailored Savile Row suit.

Toffsworld recommends Steven Hitchcock, one of a few who specialises in Soft Tailoring on Saville Row.

A fully fitted suit from Steven costs a respectable £2,000 or so depending on the cloth you choose – and there are 5,000 to choose from.

Other tailors who provide this level of service are charging nearer £5,000 for this quality – indeed there are several tailors on Savile row charging £2,000 for ‘Off the Peg’ suits!

So if you want something special in your wardrobe, our advice is to get in touch.

As a bonus, Toffsworld readers will receive a Fitted Shirt with every purchase.

So get in touch with us now and let us schedule an appointment for you.

If you want to dress to impress – this is your chance.

ARRANGE AN APPOINTMENT  on +44 (0)207 101 9214 or contact us